Hyaluronic acid is a reference ingredient in aesthetic medicine. It is naturally present in the skin and plays a role in maintaining the skin's hydration, elasticity and structure. It is an essential polysaccharide in cosmetics because its structure allows it to attract many water molecules that promote skin hydration. In the list of ingredients, we rarely find hyaluronic acid (INCI: hyaluronic acid) but rather the salt of hyaluronic acid (INCI: sodium hyaluronate). In cosmetics, the two names are interchangeable: they have the same properties, an almost similar structure but the salt form is more stable which facilitates the formulation.
Today, we are even able to modify the structure of hyaluronic acid to improve its performance and provide different properties.
In the multi-action serum, we find:
- A classic high molecular weight hyaluronic acid that retains water on the surface of the skin, it is an excellent surface moisturizer and can act as an osmotic pump helping water-soluble actives to better penetrate the skin.
- A cross-linked hyaluronic acid, which means that several hyaluronic acids are chemically linked together to create a large mesh, a larger structure with an even greater water retention capacity. This cross-linked hyaluronic acid forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to reduce water loss to keep the skin hydrated and protected and continuously delivers the absorbed water, so it provides long-term moisturizing benefits.
- A hyaluronic acid on which some alcohol groups have been replaced by acetyl groups to give it a better affinity with water and have a better hydration with longer duration. This improves adhesion and also helps repair the skin barrier.
- Pilot Comparative Study of the Topical Action of a Novel, Crosslinked Resilient Hyaluronic Acid on Skin Hydration and Barrier Function in a Dynamic, ThreeDimensional Human Explant Model, Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2016 April
- Research Article Acetylated Hyaluronic Acid: Enhanced Bioavailability and Biologica Studies, BioMed Research International 2014
- The anti-wrinkles properties of sodium acetylated hyaluronate, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2021