Assets

Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins, which are the main constituents of skin cells. Amino acids are essential to maintain the function and structure of the skin, as well as to maintain its natural hydration.

Amino acids are also key components of natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), which are molecules that occur naturally in the skin and are responsible for keeping it hydrated. NMFs are made up of different amino acids, mineral salts and other hydrating compounds.

In our eye contour treatment, the use of amino acids composed of the NMF family maintains the natural hydration of the skin and prevents dehydration of the skin in this fragile and delicate area. The eyes are often the first area of the face to show signs of dehydration, with the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, dark circles and bags under the eyes.

The use of NMF amino acids strengthens the skin barrier of the skin. The skin barrier is the outer protective layer of the skin, which prevents outside elements such as bacteria, pollutants and allergens from entering the skin. When the skin barrier is weakened, it can lead to dry, irritated and infection-prone skin. NMF amino acids help strengthen this protective barrier and maintain healthy skin.

Additionally, NMF amino acids also have skin-soothing properties, helping to reduce inflammation and irritation in the eye area. This helps reduce the appearance of dark circles and bags under the eyes, as well as improving the texture and overall appearance of the skin in this area.

In conclusion, the use of compound amino acids from the NMF family helps to maintain the skin's natural hydration, strengthen the skin barrier, soothe the skin and improve the overall appearance of the skin in this delicate area.

Hyaluronic acid is a reference ingredient in aesthetic medicine. It is naturally present in the skin and plays a role in maintaining the skin's hydration, elasticity and structure. It is an essential polysaccharide in cosmetics because its structure allows it to attract many water molecules that promote skin hydration. In the list of ingredients, we rarely find hyaluronic acid (INCI: hyaluronic acid) but rather the salt of hyaluronic acid (INCI: sodium hyaluronate). In cosmetics, the two names are interchangeable: they have the same properties, an almost similar structure but the salt form is more stable which facilitates the formulation.

Today, we are even able to modify the structure of hyaluronic acid to improve its performance and provide different properties.

In the multi-action serum, we find:

• A classic high molecular weight hyaluronic acid that retains water on the surface of the skin, it is an excellent surface moisturizer and can act as an osmotic pump helping water-soluble actives to better penetrate the skin.
• A cross-linked hyaluronic acid, which means that several hyaluronic acids are chemically linked together to create a large mesh, a larger structure with an even greater water retention capacity. This cross-linked hyaluronic acid forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to reduce water loss to keep the skin hydrated and protected and continuously delivers the absorbed water, so it provides long-term moisturizing benefits.
• A hyaluronic acid on which some alcohol groups have been replaced by acetyl groups to give it a better affinity with water and have a better hydration with longer duration. This improves adhesion and also helps repair the skin barrier.

Sources:

• Pilot Comparative Study of the Topical Action of a Novel, Crosslinked Resilient Hyaluronic Acid on Skin Hydration and Barrier Function in a Dynamic, ThreeDimensional Human Explant Model, Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2016 April
• Research Article Acetylated Hyaluronic Acid: Enhanced Bioavailability and Biologica Studies, BioMed Research International 2014
• The anti-wrinkles properties of sodium acetylated hyaluronate, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2021

Salicylic acid is a chemical exfoliant, that is to say, it eliminates excess sebum and excess dead cells on the surface of the skin by dissolving the lipid cement that binds the cells together. This allows you to find more radiant skin, tighter pores and to avoid imperfections. Salicylic acid works from 0.5% and it is allowed in Europe at a percentage of 2%.

Salicylic acid is part of the family of hydroxy acids. This family includes alpha hydroxylated acids which are abbreviated as AHA , such as glycolic acid or lactic acid and beta hydroxylated acid, BHA , which is salicylic acid. The prefix alpha or beta only denotes the position of the hydroxyl group –OH with respect to the carboxyl group –COOH in the molecule.

Salicylic acid also differs from AHAs in several other ways:

• Unlike AHAs which are soluble in water, BHA is lipophilic, that is to say soluble in oil, which gives it a better ability to penetrate directly into the pores of the skin to decongest them. It is the perfect asset to avoid imperfections.
• Being from the same family as aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid), salicylic acid also has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties which makes it ideal for acne-prone skin.
• Unlike AHAs which need an acid pH around 3.5 to function, salicylic acid is able to function at physiological pH, that is to say at the pH of the skin (between 4.5 and 5.5) which decreases potential irritation during use.
• Unlike AHAs which are photosensitive, that is to say which make the skin more sensitive to the sun and this from the first use and for several days. Salicylic acid is not and would even be photoprotective.

In summary :
Salicylic acid is an excellent exfoliating agent with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, perfect for oily skin and/or skin with inflammation, enlarged pores, blackheads or whiteheads.

Sources:

• Final Opinion on salicylic acid, SCCS, December 2018
• Exfoliation for sensitive skin with neutralized salicylic acid? International journal of cosmetic science, Volume 31, Issue 3, Pages 243-244, June 2009
• Stratum Corneum Exfoliation Effect with Hydroxy Acid according pH, Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, Volume 42 Issue 4, Pages 413-420, 2016
• Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity, Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2010
• The Effects of Topically Applied Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid on Ultraviolet RadiationInduced Erythema, DNA Damage and Sunburn Cell Formation in Human Skin, Journal of Dermatological Science, 2009 July

Tranexamic acid is a synthetic amino acid derived from lysine that has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It reduces pigment spots and hyperpigmentation of the skin by inhibiting melanin production.

Melanin production is regulated by the enzyme tyrosinase, which converts tyrosine into dopa quinone, which is then transformed into melanin. Tranexamic acid works by inhibiting the production of melanin by blocking the binding of plasmin to the receptor for the amino acid lysine, which is necessary for the activation of tyrosinase.

By blocking the production of melanin, tranexamic acid can reduce age spots and hyperpigmentation of the skin. Tranexamic acid also reduces inflammation and oxidation in the skin, which helps improve the appearance of the skin.

Several studies have evaluated the effectiveness of tranexamic acid in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and age spots. A study showed that topical application of a cream containing tranexamic acid resulted in a significant reduction in pigmentation in patients with melasma, compared to a placebo. Another study showed that tranexamic acid can also reduce ultraviolet (UV) induced hyperpigmentation in mice.

In conclusion, tranexamic acid is an effective ingredient in anti-aging skincare to reduce age spots and hyperpigmentation of the skin. By inhibiting the production of melanin, tranexamic acid improves the appearance of the skin and gives it a more even complexion. However, it is important to note that tranexamic acid should be used with caution in people with lysine hypersensitivity or very sensitive skin.

Allantoin is a natural organic compound derived from uric acid, present in many plants and in certain animal glands.

Allantoin:

improves skin texture by promoting the gentle exfoliation of dead cells, thereby stimulating cell renewal and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,

soothes and calms the skin in case of irritation or inflammation, reducing redness and helping to prevent flaking,

moisturizes, by stimulating the production of hyaluronic acid, a key component of skin hydration. It helps to keep the skin soft, supple and smooth, improving its ability to retain water and prevent dehydration.

Antioxidants, such as green tea and vitamin C derivatives, are common ingredients used in anti-aging facial treatments due to their protective properties against free radicals. Free radicals are unstable and reactive molecules that are produced by the body in response to various factors such as pollution, UV rays, stress, etc. These free radicals can damage skin cells and cause signs of premature aging, such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity and firmness, dark spots and fine lines.

Green tea is a rich source of antioxidants, especially catechins, which help neutralize free radicals and reduce the damage caused by them. Catechins also have anti-inflammatory properties, making them a useful ingredient for reducing redness and skin irritation.

Vitamin C derivatives, such as ascorbic acid, are also effective antioxidants. Vitamin C is a cofactor for the synthesis of collagen, a protein important for the structure and firmness of the skin. It reduces the appearance of dark spots by inhibiting the production of melanin in the skin.

By combining these two ingredients, green tea and vitamin C derivatives, we have created an effective formulation to protect the skin against free radicals and help prevent the signs of premature aging. Antioxidants can also help improve radiance and even skin tone, while soothing irritated skin.

Arbutin is a derivative of hydroquinone naturally present in certain plants such as blueberries, lingonberries or bearberry.

It is used to reduce the appearance of dark spots and age-related skin imperfections. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin in the skin, which is responsible for pigmentation and the formation of dark spots. By reducing the production of melanin, arbutin helps to even out skin tone and therefore give it the appearance of younger, brighter skin.

Arbutin also has antioxidant properties, which means it helps protect the skin against damage caused by free radicals, which are unstable molecules produced by UV rays and other environmental factors. Free radicals can damage skin cells, leading to signs of premature aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles.

Bisabolol is a cosmetic ingredient that has several benefits for the skin. Here is a summary of the benefits of bisabolol in skin care:

Anti-Inflammatory Properties: Bisabolol reduces inflammation and skin irritation, making it an ideal ingredient for sensitive or acne-prone skin.

Soothing action: bisabolol calms irritated or reddened skin, and reduces the appearance of redness.

Antioxidant properties: bisabolol is a natural antioxidant that helps protect the skin against damage caused by free radicals.

Moisturizing properties: bisabolol moisturizes the skin and maintains its natural moisture level.

Antibacterial action: bisabolol fights bacteria responsible for acne and helps prevent skin rashes.

Caffeine is a common ingredient used in skin care products, especially in eye care. It is appreciated for its stimulating and firming properties.

The interest of caffeine in an eye contour treatment is multiple:

Reduction of bags under the eyes: Caffeine is a vasoconstrictor, which means that it constricts the blood vessels in the area of application. This helps reduce the appearance of bags under the eyes, which are often caused by fluid buildup.

Reduction of dark circles: Caffeine helps reduce the appearance of dark circles under the eyes by increasing blood circulation in the area of application. Dark circles are often caused by poor blood circulation.

Antioxidant action: Caffeine has antioxidant properties, which means that it protects the skin against damage caused by free radicals, which can accelerate skin aging.

Tightening effect: Caffeine tones the skin and makes it firmer, which reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

In summary, caffeine is a versatile ingredient that helps reduce the signs of aging in the eye area, including puffiness, dark circles, and fine lines.

A soothing complex is a blend of active ingredients that are known for their soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. The most common ingredients in a soothing complex are allantoin and bisabolol.

Allantoin is a natural organic compound derived from uric acid, present in many plants and in certain animal glands.

Allantoin:

improves skin texture by promoting the gentle exfoliation of dead cells, thereby stimulating cell renewal and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,

soothes and calms the skin in case of irritation or inflammation, reducing redness and helping to prevent flaking,

moisturizes, by stimulating the production of hyaluronic acid, a key component of skin hydration. It helps to keep the skin soft, supple and smooth, improving its ability to retain water and prevent dehydration.

Bisabolol is a cosmetic ingredient that has several benefits for the skin. Here is a summary of the benefits of bisabolol in skin care:

Anti-Inflammatory Properties: Bisabolol reduces inflammation and skin irritation, making it an ideal ingredient for sensitive or acne-prone skin.

Soothing action: bisabolol calms irritated or reddened skin, and reduces the appearance of redness.

Antioxidant properties: bisabolol is a natural antioxidant that helps protect the skin against damage caused by free radicals.

Moisturizing properties: Bisabolol moisturizes the skin and maintains its natural moisture level.

Antibacterial action: bisabolol fights the bacteria responsible for acne and helps prevent rashes.

Signal peptides are specific amino acid sequences that cells use to direct newly synthesized proteins to their final destination within the cell. These peptides are sort of like postal addresses that indicate where the protein should be delivered.

When a cell makes a new protein, it wraps it in a special membrane called the endoplasmic reticulum membrane, where signal peptides are recognized by specific receptors. This triggers the transport of the protein to its final destination, such as the nucleus or the mitochondria.

Once the protein has reached its final destination, the signal peptides are cleaved or removed by specific proteases, leaving the functional mature protein.

Signal peptides are therefore essential for proper cell function and protein production. Without them, proteins would be unable to travel to their proper destination within the cell, which could lead to disease and cellular dysfunction.

The combination of these active ingredients in a complex is very effective for anti-aging face care, as each ingredient has different and complementary effects that work in synergy to improve the health and appearance of the skin.

Matrixyl Morphomics is a signaling peptide that stimulates the production of collagen and elastin in the skin. It can also help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Matrixyl Morphomics works by targeting fibroblasts, the cells responsible for the production of collagen and elastin.

Retinopeptide 189: Vitamin A derivative that acts as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. It helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, brighten skin tone, increase elasticity and improve skin texture.

Tripeptide-1 is a signal peptide that stimulates the production of collagen and elastin. It can also reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin texture.

Acetyl tetrapeptide-2 is a signal peptide that works by strengthening the skin barrier of the skin. It helps prevent moisture loss from the skin and improves the appearance of skin texture.

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2 is a signaling peptide that helps reduce the appearance of dark spots and skin blemishes. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color.

Cosmetic drone: Cosmetic drones are nanoparticles that transport active ingredients directly to target cells in the skin. They improve the penetration of active ingredients into the skin, which can improve their effectiveness. Cosmetic drones can also help protect active ingredients from degradation before they can reach their target in the skin.

In combination, these actives offer significant benefits for the skin in anti-aging care. They stimulate collagen and elastin production, strengthen the skin barrier, reduce the appearance of age spots and skin blemishes, and help protect skin against environmental damage.

Ceramides are naturally occurring lipids in the skin that play a key role in skin barrier function, preventing water loss and outside irritants from entering the skin. Sphingolipids and phospholipids are two types of ceramides that are valuable in skincare because they strengthen the skin barrier, help prevent moisture loss, reduce dryness and irritation, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

The ceramide complex is also known for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, which reduces redness and skin irritation, especially in people with sensitive or acne-prone skin. Finally, by helping to maintain a healthy skin barrier, the ceramide complex protects the skin against environmental damage and premature aging.

A moisturizing complex is a blend of active ingredients that are designed to hydrate the skin and maintain its moisture level. The most common ingredients in a moisturizing complex are polyglutamic acid, phytosterols and panthenol derivatives.

Polyglutamic acid is a natural amino acid that is known for its moisturizing power and plumping effect on the skin. It helps maintain skin hydration by strengthening the skin barrier and retaining water in the upper layers of the epidermis.

Phytosterols are plant lipids that are able to strengthen the skin barrier of the skin. They maintain skin hydration by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and protecting the skin against external aggressions.

Panthenol derivatives are compounds derived from vitamin B5. They are known for their moisturizing and soothing properties on the skin. They also help improve skin hydration by strengthening the skin barrier and reducing skin inflammation.

In anti-UV A sun care, a moisturizing complex is particularly interesting because UVA rays can cause dehydration of the skin by damaging its skin barrier.

• Hydrates: stimulates the glycosaminoglycans (polysaccharides) which are part of the extra cellular matrix (= liquid substance between our skin cells) of which hyaluronic acid is a part
• Wound healing: increases collagen synthesis, as well as the proliferation and migration of fibroblasts and accelerates re-epithelialization which are important processes in wound healing
• Anti-ageing: the increase in collagen synthesis also makes it effective on wrinkles, especially since centella asiatica has antioxidant activity.

• Centella asiatica in dermatology: an overview, Phytotherapy research, 2014
• Moisturizing and Antiinflammatory Properties of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Centella asiatica Extract, Indian Journal of Pharmacology Science, 2016

Rosemary leaf extract is an active ingredient derived from the Rosmarinus officinalis plant. In anti-aging face care, it is used at a concentration of 2% for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and toning properties.

Free radicals are unstable molecules produced by our body when exposed to factors such as pollution, UV rays, stress and aging. These free radicals can cause damage to our skin cells, thus accelerating the skin aging process. Rosemary leaf extract contains phenolic compounds and rosmarinic acids which act as antioxidants, protecting the skin against free radicals and reducing the signs of aging.

Rosemary leaf extract also helps soothe and reduce inflammation in the skin with its anti-inflammatory properties. Chronic inflammation is a major cause of premature skin aging, and regular use of rosemary leaf extract helps prevent these negative effects.

Finally, rosemary leaf extract tones the skin by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin. These proteins are essential for maintaining the firmness and elasticity of the skin, and their production naturally decreases with age. By stimulating their production, rosemary leaf extract improves skin texture and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

A frequently used ingredient in skin care, ginseng extract has multiple benefits:

Anti-aging: Ginseng contains antioxidant compounds such as ginsenosides, which protect the skin against damage caused by free radicals. These antioxidant properties help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while promoting firmer, more toned skin.

Improved skin elasticity: Ginseng extract increases the production of collagen in the skin, which improves its elasticity. More elastic skin can appear smoother and more youthful, with a decrease in the appearance of signs of aging.

Brightening and unifying effect: Certain types of ginseng, such as Korean red ginseng, are known for their brightening properties. Ginseng extract helps even skin tone, fade dark spots and give skin a brighter glow.

Anti-inflammatory: Ginseng has anti-inflammatory properties that soothe irritated or inflamed skin. It also helps reduce redness and irritation, resulting in a calmer, less redness-prone appearance.

Skin revitalization: Ginseng extract is renowned for its stimulating and revitalizing properties. It stimulates blood circulation in the skin, thus promoting better oxygenation and nutrition of the skin cells, which makes the skin look fresher and revitalized.

Licorice extract has many beneficial properties:

Skin Lightening: Licorice extract contains a compound called glabridin, which helps inhibit the production of melanin in the skin. This reduces the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation and evens skin tone, providing a brightening effect.

Anti-inflammatory properties: Licorice extract has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties that calm irritation and redness of the skin. It may be particularly beneficial for skin that is sensitive or prone to inflammatory reactions.

Antioxidant: Licorice extract contains antioxidant compounds, such as flavonoids, which help protect the skin against damage caused by free radicals and harmful environmental factors and thus help prevent the signs of premature aging and maintain the overall skin health.

Soothing effect: Licorice extract also has soothing properties and helps relieve skin irritations, including itching and mild inflammation.

Regulating sebum production: Certain compounds found in licorice extract have been shown to regulate the skin's sebum production. Very beneficial for oily or acne-prone skin, they help maintain sebum balance and reduce excessive shine.

Rosa Centifolia extract, also known as May rose, is an ingredient used in skincare for its anti-aging and moisturizing properties. This plant contains bioactive compounds such as flavonoids, anthocyanins and phenolic acids, which have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

The effects of Rosa Centifolia extract on the skin are due in part to its ability to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, two important proteins for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity. This increase in collagen and elastin production reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improves skin texture.

Additionally, Rosa Centifolia extract has moisturizing properties that help keep skin supple and soft. It protects the skin against damage caused by free radicals, which accelerate the aging process.

Finally, Rosa Centifolia extract is also known for its soothing properties, making it an ideal ingredient for sensitive or irritated skin. It helps reduce inflammation and calm the skin, helping to improve its overall appearance.

In sum, Rosa Centifolia extract is a versatile ingredient in anti-aging face care, providing benefits such as stimulation of collagen and elastin production, hydration, protection against free radicals and soothing properties for the skin.

Rosa Centifolia extract is suitable for all skin types and can be used daily to maintain healthy, glowing skin while fighting the signs of aging.

Grapevine extract, also known as resveratrol, is an ingredient often used in anti-aging skincare due to its high concentration of polyphenols. Polyphenols are natural antioxidant compounds that help protect the skin against free radicals and UV damage. They also have anti-inflammatory properties that reduce redness and inflammation of the skin.

As for anti-aging effects, vine extract has been shown to stimulate collagen production, which strengthens and firms the skin. It also helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, in part through its antioxidant properties that protect against environmental damage that can cause premature signs of skin aging.

In short, vine extract is an interesting ingredient in anti-aging face care due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and collagen-stimulating properties.

Sun filters are active ingredients used in sun care products to protect the skin from damage caused by the sun's UV rays. Sun filters work by absorbing, reflecting or scattering UV rays that penetrate the skin.

Tinosorb S and M sun filters are active ingredients that work by absorbing UVB and UVA rays from the sun. They have been developed to provide effective sun protection against UV rays, which are the main cause of skin damage such as sunburn, premature skin aging, dark spots and skin cancer. .

Tinosorb S and M are broad spectrum organic sunscreens. Tinosorb S is effective at absorbing UVB rays, while Tinosorb M is effective at absorbing UVA rays. Together, these two sunscreens provide complete sun protection against harmful UVB and UVA rays. They are also photostable, which means that they do not break down under exposure to the sun, ensuring reliable and long-lasting sun protection.

Uvinul A Plus sunscreen is also an organic active ingredient commonly used in sun care products. It is effective in protecting the skin from the sun's harmful UVA rays, which can penetrate deep into the skin and cause long-term damage, such as loss of elasticity, wrinkles and dark spots. Uvinul A Plus is also photostable, meaning it provides reliable sun protection for the duration of sun exposure.

Glycerin is a commonly used ingredient in skin care products, especially in anti-aging face care, due to its moisturizing and humectant properties. Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a sugar alcohol that is water soluble and found naturally in human skin. It is able to attract water to the skin and hold it, and therefore maintain optimal hydration and prevent skin dryness, which is often associated with premature aging of the skin.

When glycerin is applied to the skin, it acts as a moisturizing agent by forming a barrier on the surface of the skin to prevent water loss through evaporation.

This helps maintain the skin's natural moisture, which can help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and make skin more supple and firm.

Additionally, glycerin may also have beneficial effects on the skin barrier by enhancing the skin's ability to retain water and protect against external aggressors, such as pollution and UV rays. It helps calm sensitive and irritated skin by reducing inflammation and promoting wound healing.

In short, glycerin is a key ingredient in anti-aging face care due to its moisturizing and humectant properties, which help keep the skin hydrated, supple and firm, as well as its beneficial effects on the skin barrier and protection. against external attacks.

Meadowsweet oil is a vegetable oil extracted from the flowers of the Filipendula ulmaria plant, also known as meadowsweet. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds.

In anti-aging face care, meadowsweet oil is particularly appreciated for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. The antioxidants present in the oil help protect the skin against damage caused by free radicals, which are unstable molecules produced by exposure to UV rays, pollution and stress. Free radicals can damage skin cells, leading to loss of firmness, fine lines and wrinkles.

The anti-inflammatory compounds in meadowsweet oil reduce skin inflammation, which is often associated with premature aging. By reducing inflammation, meadowsweet oil improves skin texture and firmness.

In addition, meadowsweet oil is also used for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps maintain skin hydration, which is essential to prevent dryness and the appearance of wrinkles.

Finally, meadowsweet oil is obtained by macerating the flowers and leaves of the plant in vegetable oil. It is rich in salicylic acid, a compound known for its anti-inflammatory and exfoliating properties. Salicylic acid is also used in acne treatments due to its ability to unclog pores and reduce skin inflammation.

In summary, meadowsweet oil is a valuable ingredient in anti-aging face care due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing and nourishing properties.

Plant oils are used in anti-aging skincare for their nourishing, moisturizing and antioxidant properties. Here is an overview of the interest of each of these vegetable oils in anti-aging care:

Hazelnut oil : This oil is rich in essential fatty acids and vitamin E, making it an excellent choice for mature skin. It moisturizes and nourishes the skin while regulating sebum production.

Jojoba oil : This oil is similar to the natural sebum of the skin, which makes it very well tolerated by the skin. It hydrates the skin while regulating sebum production. It is also rich in antioxidants, which prevent damage caused by free radicals.

Moringa oil : This oil is rich in fatty acids, vitamins A and C, and antioxidants, which makes it very beneficial for mature skin. It deeply nourishes the skin and prevents the signs of aging.

Cacay oil : This oil is rich in omega-3, 6 and 9 fatty acids, as well as vitamin E and retinol. It moisturizes the skin while stimulating the production of collagen, which reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Black cumin oil : This oil is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins A, C and E and antioxidants. It deeply nourishes the skin and stimulates cell regeneration, which prevents the signs of aging.

Prickly pear oil : This oil is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins A, C and E and antioxidants. It moisturizes the skin and prevents damage caused by free radicals.

Rice oil : This oil is rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids. It moisturizes the skin and stimulates the production of collagen, which reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Hibiscus Oil : This oil is rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids. It hydrates the skin and prevents damage caused by free radicals.

Cranberry oil : This oil is rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids. It moisturizes the skin and stimulates the production of collagen, which reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Marula Oil : This oil is rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids, making it an excellent choice for mature skin. It moisturizes the skin and protects against damage caused by free radicals. Additionally, marula oil is rich in oleic acid, which is a great stimulant for collagen production, which reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Safflower Oil : This oil is rich in essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, which is important for maintaining a healthy skin barrier. It hydrates the skin. Safflower oil is also high in antioxidants, which help protect against free radical damage.

The fermentation process breaks down plant ingredients into smaller molecules that are more easily absorbed by the skin. This helps improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and stimulate collagen and elastin production.

Fermented camellia oil is particularly beneficial for the skin because it is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins A, B, D and E, and antioxidants. Essential fatty acids, such as linoleic acid and oleic acid, are important for maintaining the skin barrier and for moisturizing the skin. Vitamins A, B, D and E are essential nutrients that nourish and protect the skin, while antioxidants, such as polyphenols, protect the skin against free radical damage.

Likewise, fermented green tea oil is also rich in antioxidants, especially catechins, which have anti-inflammatory properties and help protect the skin from UV damage. Catechins reduce inflammation in the skin and improve its overall appearance.

Fermented vegetable oils facilitate the absorption of other ingredients present in skin care products, which improves their effectiveness. Additionally, fermented vegetable oils are often less irritating to the skin than unfermented oils because the fermentation process helps remove potentially irritating compounds.

In conclusion, fermented plant oils, such as camellia oil and green tea oil, are beneficial ingredients in anti-aging skincare due to their ability to improve skin texture, reduce appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, and protect the skin against damage caused by free radicals and UV rays. These oils are also rich in essential nutrients, such as essential fatty acids and antioxidants, which help nourish and protect the skin.

Munapsys was designed to target the damaging effects of skin glycation. Glycation is a chemical process in which sugars react with proteins in the skin, resulting in loss of elasticity, wrinkles, and dull appearance of the skin.

Munapsys was developed to block the negative effects of glycation by limiting the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) and inhibiting RAGE receptors (advanced glycation end product receptors). Helping to improve the appearance of the skin and minimize the signs of aging linked to glycation.

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a popular ingredient in skincare due to its many skin health benefits, especially in anti-aging skincare.

First, niacinamide helps protect the skin by strengthening the skin barrier, which is the outermost layer of the skin. A strong skin barrier can prevent outside irritants, such as chemicals and pollution, from penetrating the skin and causing damage. This prevents skin dehydration and maintains healthy skin.

Additionally, niacinamide is a powerful antioxidant that protects the skin from free radical damage. Free radicals are unstable molecules produced by factors such as pollution, cigarette smoke and UV rays. These molecules can damage skin cells and contribute to signs of premature aging such as wrinkles, age spots, and uneven skin texture.

Niacinamide improves skin texture and helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Studies have shown that it stimulates the production of collagen in the skin, which is an important protein for maintaining the structure and elasticity of the skin. In addition, it helps regulate the production of sebum, which is the skin's natural oil, which helps prevent acne and clogged pores.

Finally, niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties thanks to which it reduces redness and irritation of the skin, particularly useful for sensitive or eczema-prone skin.

• Hydrates and repairs the skin barrier: this activity can be linked to its affinity with water and its ability to retain it. It is this moisturizing effect that seems to be linked to its ability to regenerate the epidermal barrier. As the different layers of the skin undergo continuous renewal, moisturizers provide an environment that promotes the physiological processes necessary to maintain or restore skin barrier function. It has also been suggested that dexpanthenol promotes epidermal regeneration by improving epidermal differentiation and lipid synthesis. In a randomized, double-blind, controlled study in a total of 60 people, dexpanthenol in a 2.5% cosmetic formula improved stratum corneum hydration and reduced water loss over 7 days compared to placebo.
• Reduces irritation: a double-blind, placebo-controlled study in 25 people demonstrated the effectiveness of dexpanthenol in protecting the skin against irritation. The volunteers applied SLS (sodium lauryl sulphate, a potentially irritating surfactant) at 2% then an ointment containing 5% dexpanthenol and the hydration of the stratum corneum remained essentially stable on the areas treated with dexpanthenol whereas on the areas treated with placebo there was a decrease in skin hydration. Dexpanthenol by preserving good hydration of the stratum corneum allows under the influence of an irritating agent to reduce feelings of irritation.
• Wound healing: the beneficial effect of dexpanthenol on wound healing would be due to an increase in fibroblasts and accelerated epithelialisation which are two important processes for wound healing.

Note: Panthenol has two enantiomers: D and L. Enantiomers are identical structures, image of each other in a plane mirror, but are not superimposable. Only D-panthenol (dexpanthenol) is biologically active.

Sources:

• Topical use of dexpanthenol: a 70th anniversary article, Journal of dermatology Treatment, 2017
• Effect of topically applied dexpanthenol on epidermal barrier function and stratum corneum hydration. Results of a human in vivo study. Arzneimittelforschung. 2000
• Efficacy of dexpanthenol in skin protection against irritation: a double-blind, pla- 51. cebo-controlled study. Contact Dermatitis. 2003

• Signal peptides: send a signal to cells to increase the production of collagen, elastin, proteoglycan, glycosaminoglycan (hyaluronic acid) and fibronectin.
• Carrier peptides: deliver trace elements such as copper and manganese, necessary for healing.
• Peptides that inhibit neurotransmitters: relax muscles, causing the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Enzyme inhibitor peptides: directly or indirectly inhibit enzymes, unfortunately there are few or no in vivo studies on these peptides.

The peptides used:

• Acetyl tetrapeptide 2

A four amino acid peptide believed to mimic the youthful hormone called thymopoietin. It works by compensating for the loss of thymic factors that comes with age and is believed to stimulate the skin's immune defenses and help skin regenerate. (Thymulen™ 4 BG by Lucas Meyer). This peptide can also strengthen the natural elements that help maintain collagen levels and elastin fibers properly assembled, to fight against lack of firmness. (Uplevity™ peptide solution from Lipotec) In other words, it maintains the integrity of the skin's structure, increases and ensures the quality of collagen fibers.

• Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide 2

A biomimetic peptide (= taking inspiration from nature to innovate) of 3 amino acids which has a unique mechanism of action (Lucas Meyer's Progeline), it inhibits the production of progerin, a protein that accelerates cellular aging. In their in-vivo tests (performed on real people), they discovered that at 2%, this peptide improves skin elasticity and firmness by approximately 20% in 28 days. It clinically reduces the signs of aging: sagging and wrinkles, improves firmness, elasticity of the jawline for a complete remodeling effect.

• Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, also called GHK (glycine-histidine-lysine amino sequence) attached to palmitic acid (a fatty acid) to increase oil solubility and thereby skin penetration. This peptide increases the production of collagen and glycosaminoglycans (= hyaluronic acid), wrinkles are then reduced. In a study of 15 women, a cream containing palmitoyl tripeptide-1 was applied twice daily for four weeks, resulting in significant reductions in the length, depth and skin roughness of wrinkles.

• Matrixyl 3000 (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 & Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7)

Matrixyl 3000 combines Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 with tetrapeptide pal-GQPR to form a so-called synergistic duo to reduce wrinkles and provide younger looking skin. According to the in vivo test (performed on real people) by Sederma (manufacturer), application of Matrixyl 3000 at 3% twice daily for 2 months resulted in:

• 39.4% reduction in the area occupied by deep wrinkles
• 32.9% reduction in main wrinkle density
• 19.9% ​​reduction in the average depth of major wrinkles
• 16% improvement in roughness
• 16.2% lifting effect
• 5.5% improvement in elasticity
• 15.5% improvement in skin tone

• Copper peptide:

The copper peptide, in the copper tripeptide-1 form, takes up the following amino sequence: glycine-histidine-lysine with copper. It is therefore a peptide that is both a signal and a copper transporter. It is one of the most studied peptides. It stimulates the production of collagen, elastin, proteoglycan, glycosaminoglycan (hyaluronic acid) and several placebo-controlled clinical trials have confirmed its effects. A study has also compared the increase in collagen production induced by copper peptide,
vitamin C and tretinoin. The results were as follows: After one month, Cu-GHK increased collagen in 70% of those treated, compared to 50% treated with vitamin C and 40% treated with retinoic acid. Copper peptide may also promote skin regeneration, healing and repair. In conclusion, here are all the effects of copper peptide: it improves appearance, firmness, elasticity, skin thickness, wrinkles and complexion by strengthening the skin barrier.
New less studied form: Bis (Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate

• Argireline:

Acetylhexapeptide-8 (Argireline®) is a peptide having the amino sequence Acetyl-GluGlu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2. It is a neurotransmitter inhibitor peptide, it relaxes facial muscles to reduce expression lines. In a placebo-controlled study of 10 women, 10% acetylhexapeptide-8 for 30 days applied twice daily resulted in a 30% improvement in eye wrinkles.

• Matrixyl morphomics:

Matrixyl morphomics, a new matrixyl, (INCI: N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate), a new lipopeptide that would restore the connections between the cell nucleus and the extracellular matrix; a rather unique mechanism of action that allows a reduction in vertical wrinkles, specifically nasolabial folds and frown lines, after only 6 weeks.

• X-50 Antiaging Infinitec:

X50® Anti-Aging (Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14) uses 'cosmetic drone' technology, a technique of encapsulating the active ingredient to deliver it directly to key cells to stimulate the synthesis of collagen and other extracellular matrix fibers . The exterior of the capsule is made of an intelligent dual-action ligand: it recognizes fibroblasts and increases elastin synthesis. Thanks to the high penetration and selectivity of this cosmetic drone, a visible reduction of wrinkles is achieved in just 28 days of treatment. This technology allows peptides to work even at very low doses of 0.001%.

• X50 hyalufiller Infinitec:

X50® hyalufiller (Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50) uses 'cosmetic drone' technology, a technique for encapsulating the active ingredient to deliver it directly to key cells and fill in wrinkles by increasing the synthesis of hyaluronic acid. The exterior of the capsule is made of an intelligent dual-action ligand: it recognizes fibroblasts and increases elastin synthesis for more firmness.
The goal: to achieve the same effects as an injection of hyaluronic acid. X50® Hyalufiller fills in wrinkles between 70% and 80% in 14 days, at very low doses (0.001%) and without injections.

• Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3:

A new peptide with the promise of mimicking the effects of retinol: activating cell renewal and increasing collagen synthesis without its side effects: without irritation or tingling.

Sources:

• Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Results, Cosmetics 2017
• Anti-aging activity of the ghk peptide - the skin and beyond, Journal of Aging Research & Clinical Practice; Volume 1, Number 1, 2012
• Effects of topical creams containing vitamin C, a copper-binding peptide cream and melatonin compared with tretinoin on the ultrastructure of normal skin— A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study Journal: Disease Management and Clinical Outcomes., 1998
• Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin, International journal of cosmetic science, 2009
• A new matrikine-derived peptide up-regulates longevity genes for improving extracellular matrix architecture and connections of dermal cell with its matrix, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2020
• New Cosmetic or Dermopharmaceutical Topical Use of a Mixture of a Ghk Tripeptide and Gqpr Tetrapeptide, patent: WO2012164488A2
• A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2002
• GHK Peptide as a Natural Modulator of Multiple Cellular Pathways in Skin Regeneration. BioMed Research International, 2015

Lipotrue peptides are known to provide several benefits for the skin, here are some of their effects:

Cell regeneration: Peptides stimulate cell renewal in the skin, thus promoting the regeneration of skin tissue. This helps repair damage and restore the youthful, healthy appearance of the skin around the eyes.

Reduction of fine lines and wrinkles: These peptides help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin, two proteins essential for skin firmness and elasticity.

Improved skin elasticity: strengthen the structure of the skin by promoting the production of elastin. More elastic skin is less prone to sagging and signs of premature aging.

Hydration and water retention especially for the skin around the eyes

Anti-inflammatory effect: Certain peptides in Lipotrue have anti-inflammatory properties, which help to reduce redness, irritation and swelling around the eyes, thus giving the skin a calmer and rested appearance.

Phytosterols, also called plant sterols, are natural compounds found in plants. Phytosterols are present in many foods of plant origin such as nuts, seeds, green vegetables, fruits and vegetable oils.

Phytosterols have several health-promoting properties, including lowering blood cholesterol levels and helping to prevent cardiovascular disease. In cosmetics, they are used for their anti-aging, moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties.

Phytosterols:

• strengthen the skin barrier
• help prevent skin dehydration
• also have anti-inflammatory properties that reduce redness and inflammation of the skin.
• stimulate the production of collagen and thus improve the elasticity and firmness of the skin.

Post biotics are metabolites (substances produced by bacteria when they metabolize a substrate) produced by the beneficial bacteria that populate our skin microbiome. These substances are increasingly used in cosmetics for their beneficial properties on the skin.

Post biotics have several benefits for the skin, especially in our anti-aging treatment for the eye area. They have a soothing, moisturizing and regenerating action on the skin. They stimulate collagen production, which helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

By adding post biotics to our eye contour treatment, we can help strengthen the skin barrier, reduce inflammation and stimulate cell regeneration. This helps reduce the signs of aging around the eyes, such as dark circles, puffiness and wrinkles.

The 1.5% concentration of post biotics provides enough of these substances to achieve beneficial results for the skin.

Prebiotics are ingredients that feed the skin's good bacteria, also known as the skin microbiome. The skin microbiome is the ecosystem of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms that live on the surface of the skin and play a crucial role in skin health. Prebiotics promote the growth of good skin bacteria, which helps strengthen the skin barrier and improve skin function.

In an anti-aging facial treatment, the addition of prebiotics strengthens the skin barrier and helps maintain the balance of the skin microbiome. A healthy skin barrier is important because it maintains skin hydration and helps prevent Trans Epidermal Water Loss, which can lead to dry, dull and wrinkled skin.

Additionally, imbalance in the skin microbiome has been linked to skin conditions such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. Using an anti-aging facial treatment containing prebiotics can help maintain the balance of the skin microbiome.

Finally, prebiotics reduce skin inflammation. Studies have shown that prebiotics calm inflammatory reactions in the skin, which helps reduce redness, irritation, and signs of premature skin aging.

In summary, the addition of prebiotics in an anti-aging facial treatment strengthens the skin barrier, maintains the balance of the skin microbiome, prevents the appearance of skin problems and reduces inflammation of the latter. This helps improve skin health and appearance, especially as part of a comprehensive anti-aging skincare regimen.

Retinol (vitamin A) is the superstar active ingredient in cosmetics with efficacy proven by various clinical studies:

Anti-aging properties:

• Preserves the collagen present by inhibiting the destructive enzymes matrix metalloproteinases (MMP, which are increased by UVB) and stimulates the production of collagen in the skin for firmer skin as well as those of other important elements of the skin, eg. glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), natural moisturizing factors, or filaggrin for younger looking skin.
• Activates cell renewal: dead cells are replaced with new cells for brighter looking skin

Anti stain properties:

Retinol also reduces dark spots by blocking the transfer of melanin to epidermal cells and by reducing the activity of melanocytes as well as accelerating cell renewal.

Anti acne properties:

Retinol also has an anti-acne effect by reducing the size and secretion of the sebaceous glands and by activating cell renewal.

Retinol is used in cosmetics at percentages between 0.01 to 1%. There are no restrictions on its use but higher percentages will not be authorized by toxicologists, the SCCS recommends a % of 0.3% in order not to exceed the maximum daily dose of vitamin A because it has side effects if this dose is exceeded.

Retinol is part of the retinoid family comprising the following forms:

Only the forms: retinol esters, retinol and retinal are authorized in cosmetics. Retinal is more difficult to formulate and therefore more rarely used. Retinol to work in the skin must convert to retinal and then to retinoic acid. It is only retinoic acid that has the beneficial effects. The more there are conversions, the more the effectiveness for the skin is reduced but the irritating effects are also. Retinol is recommended for use in the evening because it is not very stable against light and heat, which is why it is necessary to have airless packaging.

Note: Retinyl palmitate is an antioxidant widely used to protect a cosmetic formula from oxidation and also to support UV filters in sunscreen products.

Sources:

• Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: An overview of clinical efficacy and safety, Clinical Interventions in Aging, 2006
• Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments, Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 2019
• A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2016

Sericoside is a derivative of silk and is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties. It reduces inflammation by reducing the production of inflammatory cytokines and increasing the production of collagen. Also, it improves skin hydration by increasing the skin's ability to retain water.

Sirtalice is an active ingredient derived from marine biotechnology technology. It is known for its instant tensor effect and its action on the firmness of the skin. Specifically, Sirtalice is an extract of marine microalgae that contains sulfated polysaccharides.

It is derived from the technology of sirtuins, which are regulatory enzymes of cellular metabolism.

Sirtalice works by stimulating the natural production of sirtuins in skin cells, which helps to strengthen the cells' resistance to environmental stresses such as pollution, UV rays and oxidative stress. This helps prevent cell damage and reduce signs of premature aging, such as wrinkles, fine lines and loss of firmness.

The optimal concentration of Sirtalice in anti-aging face care products is 2%. At this concentration, it has been shown to have a visible effect on the skin by reducing wrinkles and improving skin firmness. Additionally, Sirtalice is considered a safe and effective ingredient, with clinical results demonstrating its effectiveness on different skin types.

In summary, the interest of Sirtalice in anti-aging face care is that it stimulates the production of sirtuins, thus strengthening the skin's resistance to environmental stresses and helping to prevent the signs of premature aging. A concentration of 2% is recommended to obtain visible and effective results.

• Antioxidants (anti aging)

• Anti-inflammatories

• Antimicrobials

A property that can be interesting for acne-prone skin.

Sources:

• Green tea in dermatology – myths and facts, Journal Der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft, Volume 13 (8)– Aug 1, 2015
• Protective Mechanisms of Green Tea Polyphenols in Skin, Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity. 2012

Unisooth EG-28 is a seaweed extract that helps reduce inflammation and protect the skin against free radical damage. Free radicals are unstable molecules that can damage skin cells and contribute to the skin aging process. By protecting the skin against free radicals, Unisooth EG-28 maintains the youthful and healthy appearance of the skin.

Unitamuron H22 is a polysaccharide derived from red algae. It is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and skin plumping properties.

The primary function of Unitamuron H22 is to form a protective film on the surface of the skin, so that the latter can maintain its hydration by reducing transepidermal water loss. The appearance or increase of wrinkles and fine lines due to dehydration is correspondingly delayed.

Finally, Unitamuron H22 induces a smoothing and silky effect on the skin.

• Antioxidant properties

• Anti-aging properties

• Anti-stain properties

• Its stability: vitamin C can oxidize very quickly, which can reduce its effectiveness
• Its penetration: since vitamin C is water-soluble, it has difficulty penetrating into the skin.
• Its irritant nature: to overcome the two problems above, one of the solutions is to lower the pH to a pH of around 3.5, which can be irritating for certain skin types.

• ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
• ascorbyl glucoside: stable and easy to formulate, in vitro studies show that it can penetrate the skin and is then converted into pure vitamin C. It also exhibits the three anti-aging benefits of pure vitamin C: antioxidant protection, collagen strengthening and reduction of hyperpigmentation which has been tested in vivo. Ascorbyl glucoside is typically used in 2-5% concentrations when the goal is to brighten dull skin and fade the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
• ethyl ascorbic acid: stable and penetrates the skin. According to the supplier, EAC is metabolized in the skin to pure ascorbic acid and they also claim that EAC seems to have both an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect, and may be able to stimulate the production of collagen skin. The strong point of the EAC however is the lightening of the skin. In addition to the manufacturer's claims, there is also in vivo clinical data (tested on real people) showing that 2% EAC can improve skin tone.

Sources:

• Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2012
• Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamics, Computers in Biology and Medicine, Volume 75, 2016

Vitamin E, also known as tocopherol, is a commonly used ingredient in skin care products due to its many skin benefits:

Antioxidant: Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant that protects the skin against free radicals and oxidative damage. This helps prevent signs of premature skin aging caused by environmental factors such as the sun's UV rays and pollution.

Hydration: Vitamin E is beneficial for skin hydration. It strengthens the skin barrier and helps retain moisture, helping to keep the skin soft, supple and well hydrated.

Soothing effect: Vitamin E has soothing properties that calm and reduce skin irritation, redness and mild inflammation. This can be particularly beneficial for skin that is sensitive or prone to inflammatory reactions.

Healing: Vitamin E promotes healing of the skin by helping to regenerate damaged tissue. It helps reduce the appearance of scars, acne marks and skin blemishes.

Protection against sun damage: Vitamin E acts as a protective agent against damage caused by the sun's UV rays. Although it does not replace the use of adequate sun protection, it can help minimize the harmful effects of the sun on the skin.

X50 Hyalufiller powder is a concentrated form of hyaluronic acid, a molecule naturally present in the skin which maintains its hydration and firmness. Hyaluronic acid helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing skin hydration and stimulating collagen production. Thanks to its high concentration, X50 Hyalufiller powder penetrates deeper into the skin to provide more visible results.