In skincare, arbutin is a powerful brightening agent with no notable side effects . In an opinion published in 2023 , the SCCS The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety considers its use safe when limited to a concentration of 2% in facial creams and 0.5% in body lotions. This natural molecule, extracted from bearberry leaves, can also be synthesized in the laboratory from hydroquinone , a bleaching agent that is toxic at high doses. However, alpha-arbutin remains a reliable active ingredient for targeting hyperpigmentation safely. This expert guide helps you distinguish between the two and adopt the right practices in your anti-dark spot routine .
Is Arbutin a derivative of Hydroquinone?
What is Hydroquinone (and why is it regulated)?
Hydroquinone is a powerful depigmenting agent that works by destroying melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin. While very effective against dark spots, it can also cause cytotoxicity and, in the long term, ochronosis , a condition characterized by the appearance of irreversible bluish spots.
This controversial ingredient is now banned in skincare in Europe and reserved for medical use. It is precisely to replace it that safer alternatives, such as arbutin acid, have emerged.
Does Alpha-Arbutin release hydroquinone?
Yes, but in a very low and controlled manner . Alpha-arbutin, a natural glucoside, slowly releases hydroquinone only at the level of melanocytes, where melanin is formed. This targeted action is too weak to be toxic, but effective enough to safely lighten dark spots.
Alpha-Arbutin and Beta-Arbutin: what's the difference?
In skincare, alpha-arbutin is sometimes replaced by beta-arbutin , a cheaper but also less reliable alternative. It is an unstable active ingredient that easily degrades into hydroquinone at uncontrolled levels, especially if the product formulation is of poor quality (incorrect pH).
At Nooance, we have selected synthetic alpha-arbutin , a form ten times more stable and effective than beta-arbutin to guarantee visible results on pigmentation spots, without the risk of uncontrolled release of hydroquinone.
The Multi-Active Plumping Serum combines the brightening properties of arbutin with the hydrating power of 5 forms of hyaluronic acid for a complete anti-aging action and a visibly clearer complexion.
Mechanism of action: an active ingredient capable of reducing melanin content
Arbutin's unique characteristic is that this molecule works by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase , an enzyme responsible for melanin production . By blocking the transfer of melanin into melanocytes, this active ingredient prevents skin pigmentation.
This explains its formidable effectiveness on melasma (pregnancy mask), sun spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (surgery, acne).
Unlike harsh depigmenting agents, alpha-arbutin does not strip the skin. It does not eliminate melanin, but regulates its production to even out skin tone and reduce dark spots.
Alpha-Arbutin: advice and precautions for use
Is arbutin acid really safe to use? Here are some considerations to take into account to maximize the benefits of this brightening ingredient in skincare.
Is alpha-arbutin photosensitizing?
Unlike other anti-blemish actives (exfoliating acids), arbutin only acts on melanin production; it does not make the skin more fragile or sensitive to the sun.
However, it remains essential to use it in conjunction with a minimum SPF 30 sunscreen on a daily basis for optimal effectiveness on hyperpigmentation and to prevent the appearance of brown spots with age.
Can arbutin-based skincare products be used during pregnancy?
Hormonal changes can sometimes cause melasma, or the mask of pregnancy. Currently, there are no contraindications to the use of arbutin in pregnant women, provided the concentration limits are respected (less than 2%).
However, as a precautionary measure, we recommend that you seek the advice of a healthcare professional and choose skincare products with natural formulas, avoiding combinations of overly powerful depigmenting agents.
Is this anti-blemish active ingredient irritating to sensitive skin?
No, it's actually an excellent choice for fragile skin because it's very well tolerated by all skin types. If you have sensitive skin, opt for formulas based on hyaluronic acid or soothing active ingredients like niacinamide.
Can alpha-arbutin and vitamin C be combined?
Yes, it's actually a highly effective synergy of active ingredients to reduce dark spots while promoting a radiant complexion. Alpha-arbutin regulates melanin production to diminish spots, while vitamin C acts as an antioxidant and radiance booster, evening out skin tone and protecting the skin from oxidative stress.
Conclusion: Can alpha-arbutin be trusted to reduce blemishes and even out skin tone?
Arbutin acid is a powerful, safe, and perfectly tolerated anti-dark spot active ingredient that helps even out skin tone and brighten the complexion daily. Its targeted and controlled release of hydroquinone allows for effective action without irritation, even on sensitive skin, and without the risk of excessive depigmentation. Incorporating it into your Nooance skincare routine helps maintain a radiant, luminous, and even complexion while respecting the sensitivity of your skin.
