Salicylic acid, or 2-hydroxybenzoic acid , is known for its anti-inflammatory properties and its effectiveness on acne-prone skin. It is authorized in cosmetic formulations at a maximum concentration of 2% , which makes it completely safe for use on the skin. The real “danger” of salicylic acid lies in improper use: wrong quantity, excessive use, high sensitivity on certain skin types or combination with other active ingredients. Nooance-Paris gives you the scientific keys to integrate this exfoliating active ingredient into an effective and risk-free routine.
Salicylic Acid (BHA): Why is it so effective?
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A deep exfoliation
This exfoliating active ingredient, derived from willow bark, belongs to the BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) family. It stands out for its unique ability to penetrate deep into pores clogged by serum thanks to its fat-soluble nature, unlike AHAs (such as glycolic acid).
This is what makes it a great ingredient for problem skin: it works directly on the skin's stratum corneum to dissolve dead cells and eliminate impurities responsible for pimples and blackheads.
Studies have shown a significant reduction in acne lesions (inflammatory and non-inflammatory) without damaging the skin barrier ( study link here ).
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A soothing antibacterial action
The other major benefit of salicylic acid, often overlooked, is its soothing power. It helps reduce redness associated with blemishes, calm inflammation, and limit skin reactions to prevent the appearance of pimples. It visibly improves skin texture: pores are tightened, and redness fades.
A clinical study confirms the effectiveness of salicylic acid at cosmetic concentration (1.5%) on blemished skin: 95% of participants noted an improvement in acne, without adverse reactions ( link to the study here ).
What are the risks to be aware of?
Irritations and alteration of the skin barrier
Excessive chemical exfoliation with a product containing salicylic acid can cause various symptoms: feelings of tightness, redness, irritation, and flaking (peeling skin).
To avoid these unwanted effects:
- Respect the frequency of use
- Start with a low concentration
- Use a moisturizer after exfoliation
Photosensitizing effect
As with any cosmetic treatment, it's counterproductive to apply salicylic acid to your face in the morning without sun protection. It promotes cell renewal, but its exfoliating action makes the skin more vulnerable to UV rays.
To avoid sun-related skin reactions such as hyperpigmentation:
- Choose a night cream based on salicylic acid
- Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a minimum SPF 30 daily.
Combinations of assets to avoid
- Retinol: It's possible to use both salicylic acid and retinol in your beauty routine if your skin is already accustomed to these two active ingredients. However, it's best to alternate your treatments to benefit from both the anti-aging effects of retinol and the exfoliating action of BHAs.
1% Retinol Treatment Nooance-Paris perfectly complements an anti-inflammatory beauty routine, while providing powerful antioxidant protection against free radical damage.
- AHAs: glycolic acid, lactic acid.
AHA and BHA form an explosive exfoliating duo: avoid combining these two active ingredients if you have sensitive skin and favor a single type of exfoliant, depending on your skin's needs.
Contraindications of BHAs
In certain cases, salicylic acid is strongly discouraged:
- Known allergy to aspirin (salicylates) or nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs)
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding: choose gentler alternatives such as azelaic acid or niacinamide.
- Skin conditions such as eczema and rosacea: always seek medical advice.
Salicylic Acid: How to Use It Safely?
Although it is suitable for all skin types, there are a few precautions to follow to maximize the benefits of salicylic acid and use it properly on a daily basis.
Choose a concentration between 0.5 and 2%
To begin, opt for gentle formulas (lotions, serums or facial cleansers), with a concentration of 0.5% to 1%, to use daily.
If you are using BHA as a skin treatment, for example on acne-prone or oily skin, a concentration of around 2% is more suitable for achieving real results: this is the maximum concentration allowed in cosmetics in Europe.
Adjust the frequency of use
Introduce this active ingredient gradually into your skincare routine to avoid irritation and allow the skin to adapt.
For sensitive or reactive skin, apply 2 to 3 times a week, preferably in the evening, on clean, dry skin.
Moisturize skin and apply SPF
Always start your skincare routine with gentle cleansing: How to deep cleanse your skin?
Then apply your salicylic acid skincare products along with a moisturizer or a treatment made with soothing and hydrating active ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides. During the day, complete your beauty routine with a minimum SPF 30+ sunscreen.
Clearer skin, faster: complementary solutions to exfoliating acids
Salicylic acid is a powerful active ingredient on its own, but its results on the skin are even more visible when combined with other treatments or technologies.
Salicylic acid and soothing active ingredients
To balance the exfoliating effects of salicylic acid, focus on ingredients that strengthen the skin barrier:
- Niacinamide (vitamin B3): regulates sebum, calms inflammation, boosts radiance.
- Panthenol (provitamin B5): soothes and repairs sensitized skin.
- Aloe vera, calendula or centella asiatica: plants known for their healing and softening properties.
BHA and LED face mask
Coming from Beauty Tech , light therapy is a gentle, non-invasive treatment that perfectly complements the action of salicylic acid. After exfoliation, the red light helps soothe the skin while stimulating cell renewal and collagen production. The light wavelengths of the LED face mask reduce inflammation and accelerate the regeneration of the skin barrier.
Should You Avoid Salicylic Acid Completely? Expert Answer
Its benefits are well-proven: salicylic acid is an essential beauty ally for fighting imperfections and purifying the skin... provided you use it correctly. A routine adapted to your skin, sun protection and complementary treatments like the LED mask, are the key to healthy and radiant skin, without the risk of irritation. Adapt your use to your phototype and you will gradually see your skin soothe, balance itself and regain all its natural radiance.
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