It is considered one of the best anti-blemish ingredients in cosmetics for oily , combination, or acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid helps eliminate impurities and excess sebum, fights pimples and blackheads, and promotes a smoother, more radiant complexion. Discover how this gentle exfoliant works on the skin, the proven benefits of salicylic acid (BHA) , and how to effectively incorporate it into your beauty routine.
What makes salicylic acid so powerful? The science behind BHA
If this active ingredient has been recognized by dermatologists for years, it is because it possesses unique properties, which make it a choice ally for treating acne.
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It is a fat-soluble acid
Unlike fruit acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid, which are water-soluble and remain on the surface, salicylic acid belongs to the BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) family, notably found in willow bark. Its unique characteristic is its fat-soluble nature, making it highly effective at unclogging pores.
It is this targeted action that helps to reduce the appearance of enlarged pores before and after , to limit the appearance of pimples and to achieve clearer skin.
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It has a keratolytic action
Its gentle exfoliating action removes dead skin cells accumulated on the stratum corneum without the need for rubbing, thus preventing irritation. This benefit helps prevent the formation of new blemishes and promotes skin cell renewal .
The real benefits of salicylic acid for your skin
Beyond its anti-blemish action, salicylic acid is a true multi-functional active ingredient: it exfoliates, purifies, soothes and helps maintain clear and luminous skin.
Benefit #1: A deep purifying action on pores and blackheads
Proven effective in dissolving blackheads and preventing their reappearance
Because it is oil-soluble, salicylic acid penetrates directly into the sebum to dissolve the plugs responsible for blackheads and whiteheads. Unlike a simple surface cleanser, it works inside the pores, preventing them from becoming clogged and thus preventing the formation of new blemishes.
A clinical study has established a link between the regular application of cosmetic products containing salicylic acid and the reduction of blackheads (comedones) after 12 weeks of use.
Visibly tightened pores and a clearer complexion
By removing dead skin cells and excess sebum, BHA helps refine skin texture and tighten the appearance of enlarged pores.
Several studies have found a significant improvement in skin texture through daily use of low-concentration salicylic acid (0.5 to 2%).
Benefit #2: Intelligent sebum regulation for oily skin
Its sebum-regulating role for lastingly mattified skin
In oily or combination skin, excess sebum contributes not only to the shiny effect but also to the appearance of imperfections.
Clinical studies have shown that a daily treatment containing 2% salicylic acid can reduce sebum production by nearly 24% in 3 weeks, with a progressive effect from the first few days.
This regulation allows the skin to remain matte throughout the day, without compromising its natural hydration.
A balancing effect to prevent oily skin
When skin is subjected to harsh conditions (drying products, intensive cleansing, scrubs), it reacts by producing sebum, which leads to more imperfections. Salicylic acid has the advantage of working deep down without irritating the skin: it reduces sebum production and leaves skin smooth, more comfortable, and free of shine and blemishes.
Discover our guide on double facial cleansing , an essential step before applying exfoliating actives.
Benefit #3: An anti-inflammatory action to soothe acne
Soothing properties that reduce redness and irritation
Salicylic acid, a derivative of aspirin, has recognized anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties. This action helps to reduce the redness and inflammation associated with acne lesions.
Reducing inflammation to accelerate acne healing
Salicylic acid reduces inflammatory lesions, visibly improving the appearance of red pimples. It is a valuable ally in cosmetics for combating inflammatory acne thanks to its antibacterial action: it stops the proliferation of bacteria on the sebaceous glands, particularly Cutibacterium acnes, which is responsible for the inflammatory reactions of acne.
How to maximize the benefits of salicylic acid? The expert protocol
A few good practices can help you easily integrate this exfoliating active ingredient into your skincare routine, to regain beautiful skin in a few weeks.
Choosing the right concentration: between 0.5 and 2%
Introduce the active ingredient gradually into your skincare routine: start with light formulas, with a concentration between 0.5 and 1%.
To best benefit from the action of BHA as an anti-acne treatment, a concentration of 2% is more suitable: this is the maximum concentration allowed in cosmetics in Europe.
Combining powerful active ingredients: Niacinamide and Hyaluronic Acid
Salicylic acid can sometimes dry out the skin, so it is essential to combine it with moisturizing and soothing active ingredients.
- Niacinamide (vitamin B3) provides a soothing and anti-inflammatory effect, which is very complementary to the purifying action of salicylic acid.
Experience the full effectiveness of niacinamide in our Clarifying Treatment , designed for intense and targeted purifying action.
- Hyaluronic acid provides intense hydration, essential for maintaining comfort after skin exfoliation, while promoting cell renewal.
Precautions for use: ideal frequency and care routine
To avoid irritation, start by using salicylic acid every other day, then daily.
For sensitive or very dry skin, applying it 2 to 3 times a week may be sufficient.
Soothe and hydrate the skin after exfoliation, completing your routine with a regenerating treatment like our Youth Serum with 2% Copper Peptides and sun protection.
Sources for the article:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/14725662/
