A peptide is a chain of amino acids, amino acids being the building blocks of proteins. Peptides and proteins differ by the number of amino acids: peptides are very short proteins. Their main cosmetic asset: excellent documented tolerance. Several families are distinguished.
Signal peptides, associated, according to available data, with supporting mechanisms involved in maintaining skin structure (collagen, elastin, proteoglycans, glycosaminoglycans, fibronectin). Carrier peptides, linked to delivering trace elements like copper or manganese. Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, associated with visible reduction of expression wrinkles. Enzyme-inhibiting peptides, actives for which in vivo data remain limited.
Peptides present in our formulas.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2 (Thymulen™ 4 BG / Uplevity™): biomimetic peptide of 4 amino acids linked, according to available data, to supporting skin comfort and firmness appearance.
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2 (Progeline™): biomimetic peptide of 3 amino acids. At 2%, it is linked to visible improvement in skin firmness and suppleness (about +20% in 28 days in vivo) and visible reduction of time-related signs.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1: GHK peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) linked to palmitic acid to improve solubility. Linked, according to available data, to supporting mechanisms involved in maintaining skin structure and visible reduction of fine lines. In a study on 15 volunteers, a cream containing Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 applied twice daily for 4 weeks was linked to visible improvement in wrinkle appearance.
Matrixyl™ 3000 (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 + Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7): peptide duo linked to visible wrinkle reduction and appearance of more toned skin. According to the manufacturer's in vivo study (Sederma), applying Matrixyl™ 3000 at 3% twice daily for 2 months was linked to a 39.4% reduction in deep wrinkle surface area, 32.9% reduction in main wrinkle density, 19.9% reduction in average depth of main wrinkles, 16% improvement in roughness, visible tightening effect of 16.2%, 5.5% improvement in elasticity, and 15.5% improvement in complexion uniformity.
Copper Tripeptide-1 (copper peptide): GHK-Cu sequence, both a signal and copper carrier peptide. One of the most studied peptides. Linked, according to available data, to supporting mechanisms involved in maintaining skin structure and visible reduction of fine lines. In an independent study, Cu-GHK was linked to visible improvement reported in 70% of treated individuals, versus 50% with vitamin C and 40% with retinoic acid. A newer, less studied form: Bis(Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate.
Argireline™ (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8): biomimetic peptide linked, according to available data, to progressive reduction of expression wrinkle appearance. In a placebo-controlled study on 10 volunteers, 10% Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 applied twice daily for 30 days was linked to a visible 30% improvement in wrinkle appearance around the eyes.
Matrixyl™ Morphomics (N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate): next-generation lipopeptide. Linked, according to available data, to visible reduction of vertical wrinkles (nasolabial folds, frown lines) after 6 weeks.
X-50 Anti-aging (Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Infinitec): peptide vectorized via cosmetic drone technology. Linked, according to available data, to visible wrinkle reduction from 28 days at very low dose (0.001%) and support of mechanisms involved in visible skin suppleness.
X-50 Hyalufiller (Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50, Infinitec): vectorized peptide linked to skin hydration support and visible improvement of fine lines at very low dose.
Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3: recent peptide whose appearance profile is linked, according to available data, to effects on visible skin quality with better documented tolerance than retinol.
Sources: Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Results, Cosmetics, 2017; Anti-aging activity of the GHK peptide, JARCP, 2012; Effects of topical creams containing vitamin C, a copper-binding peptide cream and melatonin compared with tretinoin on the ultrastructure of normal skin, Disease Management and Clinical Outcomes, 1998; Role of topical peptides, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2009; A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity, IJCS, 2002; GHK Peptide as a Natural Modulator, BioMed Research International, 2015.
