Salicylic acid is a liposoluble hydroxy acid belonging to the BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) family. It is documented in scientific literature for its soothing properties and affinity with sebum, allowing a documented effect on pore appearance. Active from 0.5%, it is authorized in Europe at a maximum concentration of 2% in cosmetics.
Unlike AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids: glycolic acid, lactic acid), which are water-soluble and require an acidic pH around 3.5, salicylic acid is soluble in lipids and works at physiological pH (4.5 to 5.5), reducing discomfort sensations associated with its application.
Chemically, salicylic acid belongs to the hydroxybenzoic acid family, giving it scientifically documented soothing properties. Unlike AHAs, it is not photosensitizing.
In summary, a well-documented exfoliating active suitable for oily skin and skin with blemishes, visible pores, blackheads, or whiteheads.
Sources: Final Opinion on salicylic acid, SCCS, December 2018; Exfoliation for sensitive skin with neutralized salicylic acid, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, Vol. 31, 2009; Stratum Corneum Exfoliation Effect with Hydroxy Acid according to pH, JSCSK, Vol. 42 Issue 4, 2016; Applications of hydroxy acids, Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2010.
